Our campsite last night worked out very, very well. We were quite concerned about finding a decent place before dark and it was getting trickier and trickier as we got closer and closer to town. Thankfully Alex spotted the abandoned house and although we couldn’t get in, the driveway worked out very well!
Today’s ride was brilliant. More beautiful Tuscan countryside and we finally started to pick up pace. We were awake by 7am and on the road at 8.15. after a quick stop for groceries in Grosetto we wheeled into the day and the miles moved by with ease. We had some climbs, some fun descents and beautiful views. The Italians has managed to build a small city on every mountain top in this area it seems!
We stopped for lunch after about 40km in the walled city Magliano in Toscana…a cute quiet place, and it’s town square suited us just fine for the purpose.
Back on the bikes we started heading south again. Ideally we would like to have cycled the along the sea to Rome, but in these parts, it is just not possible. There are no roads along the seafront, and those that are there are highways and just too dangerous, not too mention illegal, for bicycles. So off the beaten track it would have to be, but that’s not too bad…after all…taking the road less travelled is the whole point of bicycle touring!
We stopped at a cemetery in Capalbio to refuel our water bottles…while at task, another touring cyclist turns up! Stefan is from Munich and has just completed a one week tour of Elba – he’s also heading to Rome! Very unusual to come across another cyclist also going in the same direction…also in December! Se he joined us and we cycled on together. Four cyclists…heading south.
The days are quite short now…by 4pm you really need to start looking for a place to wild camp. The daily ritual now is get up, eat, pack camp, cycle for a bit, buy groceries, cycle a bit, stop and eat, cycle for a bit, look for camp, find camp, set up camp, cook dinner, eat, dessert, sleep….it’s now only 8pm.
Today we got really lucky and found an abandoned hut in the middle of a field. It’s dirty, fully of empty bottles, old tatty and rotting furniture, there is no door, and no glass in the window., but it has a fireplace and room for four sleeping bags – so it will do perfectly.
While collecting firewood a local sheep herder dropped by with his flock. We had a chat – scared off his sheep, which he rounded up again…and he gave us the ok on spending the night here.
It’s been a fun evening of collecting firewood, cooking food, drinking cheap wine and general shooting the shit.
It is now only 7.45pm…it’s dark…we’re all in bed…and lights out till morning…day starts at 7…lots of sleeping and lots of eating!
76 Km Bicycled Today
3255km to Date
4 Comments
You were concerned about the lack of couchsurfers in Italy, but have found roughcampersdotcom!!!
Sounds great, bro. Didnt realize the route would take you that far south. Are you still planning to ride out the holidays in Croatia? Beautiful shots
Glad for you to have found friends along the road! I enjoy reading you so don’t skip a day please
))
I’m writing you to tell you that I’ve been also ridin with Alex. I’ve done a big tour with him, from Portugal to Romania… And enjoyed the funny twist of History, by putting him in “my role” and you on his, 4 years ago.
So, I’m glad to see that he’s more relaxed on the planning and open to stumble on contemplation, and that you also might consider that path
2nd point, and why I comment on this particular post, is Capalbio. I’ve visited it before, and it’s nearby Giardin dei tarocchi (a great pet-project of an amazing artist). Pity that you didn’t find it…
All the best for your travels…
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[...] zone confinanti fino ad oltre 500 metri sul livello del mare, fra cui Buriano, Montepescali, …Day 56 – Dec 12th – Near Grosseto to a campsite near Pescia …We stopped for lunch after about 40km in the walled city Magliano in Toscana…a cute quiet place, [...]