The Wandering Idiot

Last night was the first time on my entire tour that I actually felt like I was opening myself to the opportunities being presented. All too often I have felt that I have planned too much, taken the easy route by using the different hospitality networks (Couchsurfing, Warmshowers, Hospitality Club, etc.) Running into Alex and Tiago on the road yesterday really opened my eyes and has had a huge impact on my trip. To learn that over the last three months they have wild camped all but 6 nights or so really inspired me to go with them and learn a little bit about it. I guess I’ve been afraid to try on my own…and also missed the company of people, so this is something that I am really up for.

I had planned to make a more direct route to Ancona, take the ferry to Split where I can stay with friends and then cycle north to Zagreb. But I’ve been to Croatia…many times. I’ve driven the coast and crossed the mountains so many times that I have no need to cycle them – even less so in the winter. So rather, I have decided to spend more time in Italy and am now cycling south with Alex and Tiago to Rome…after all…I’ve never been to Rome.

This morning I left my hosts quite early…they were great and really helped encourage me to change my plans. I really needed to replace my brake pads – the sound of steel on aluminium was getting bad and the hills were getting steeper the deeper I worked my way into Tuscany – so first stop was a bike shop. I bought some new break blocks and then cycled down to the Piazza del Campo where I set up my work shop and got busy fixing my bike. Alex and Tiago met me there a little while later and after some sightseeing and a visit to a grocery store we set off on our journey.

Our destination today was a hot spring about 40km south of Siena. Not a massive ride, but challenging none the less with 20 degree climbs and descents. We took are our time, enjoyed the views and had a nice long lunch break. It was cold, crisp, cloudless and clear…and fantastic winter day to be on the bike.

The sun started setting and by the time we found the hot spring it was dark. Head lamps on, we pitched camp and then made our way to the springs for a dip. As we got closer we noticed many naked bodies already present! No problem, they made space for three more…the water stunk of sulphur…but it was hot – very hot, the sky was cloud free and littered with more stars than I have seen in ages! Divine.

After the dip we made dinner and then took over a campfire that had been abandoned by other bathers…

It has all been quite funny really…on my first wild camping experience there was a jacuzzi, and campfire already lit and burning, and copious food and wine…not exactly but I was expecting..but I’ll take it.

By the time we got into the springs it was too dark for pictures, but in the morning we’ll definitely have another dip before we head out, so will get some pics of the area then….

51km Bicycled Today

3117km to Date