The Wandering Idiot

One thing that I have learned on this trip is to always accept any food offered to you. As such, when I left the lovely company of Nicole, Jean and their son, Matthew – I left with three boiled eggs, a whole pack of figs, butter biscuits, and oranges!

I really enjoyed my time spent with them – not only do they live in a beautiful home in a very special and beautiful part of the world – but they really looked after me and only because a they received a phone call from a friend. The level of hospitality the people are willing to extend to me (and anyone else cycling through, I presume) continues to astonish me.

Second to riding my bike – it is the best part of this trip

I left Jean and Nicole early…I was really concerned this morning about riding into Marseilles at night and I had heard plenty of dodgy stories about the city.

I was on my bike at 7:15am. It was brilliant. The air was still, not a cloud in the sky, and I pedalled into the sunrise.

Immediately after I left the Camargue, crossed a river, the scenery completely changed…from beautiful salt marshes – to an industrial wasteland. I was surround by trucks, oil refineries, and other unknown industry…pumping fumes into the sky and raping the land. It was so bizarre – from herons, reed beds, and bulls – to this industrial world…well we know it exists, but we would rather not see it – and I certainly don’t like riding my bike through it – dodging 26 ton tanker trucks!

The good thing though was this area was, flat, and I had a tail wind (first one of the trip!) and was able to push through the wasteland at an average speed of about 31kph…thank god for that!

I finally arrived to Martigues – quick break, ate and egg…and then set off for the hills ahead. I knew that behind that climb was the sea and I couldn’t wait to get back on the Med!

The climb went on and on, but not too exhausting. I haven’t had a real climbs for days now so I was grateful for the change in scenery…but at the top of the climb I was rewarded with this view (not a great picture, but just imagine you were there:)!)

Followed by a few miles of fantastic rolling downhill to the sea.

Now I really felt like I was in the Mediterranean. Rather than miles of sandy beaches I had now come to a rocky coast that fell straight into the sea. That strong smell of pine, that I am so familiar with in the Adriatic, permeated my head and immediately brought back memories of holidays spent on Croatias fantastic coast. The water was blue. Really blue. This is the Mediterranean sea that I know.

I love the rocky, craggy, coasts.

The following miles followed a road that snaked along the villages, in and out of the coves, following the sea. It was great riding. I could see Marseilles in the distance.

Lunch – the snacks said above…the last two eggs, butter biscuits, two oranges, a fig – oh yes…and a croissant I had bought earlier – all enjoyed on the Med.

I reached Marseilles in very, very good time. I covered the 100+km in exactly five hours, so by 1.30pm I was sitting in a bar on the old harbour relaxing with an espresso first – and then a glass of wine later. I had a few hours to kill as I was meeting Jerome at about 4pm.

I sat. I read Al Humphrey’s book. It inspired me to want more! France…I’m only in France! Where is the real adventure! hehe…kidding…I’m having a great time, and probably not as masochistic as Al.

Jerome is in Marseilles – he’s staying with some of his friends here. I am meant stay two nights there as well. We’ll see how Jerome’s knee is today and tomorrow.

4pm…I was expecting a phone call from Jerome or his friends. I’m still sitting at the cafe. But it’s started to get dark…and the last thing I want to do is bumble around an unfamiliar city with all my gear after dark…I mean – the whole point of leaving so early this morning was so that I would reach the city with plenty of light.

5pm…still no word. I make an executive decision to try and find the flat. I have the address, but did not prepare this eventuality so no map. I asked, and asked, and eventually I found the street. Wasn’t hard and I was chuffed with myself for sorting it out. I found the flat, rang the bell…no answer. So I walked back down to the port. Perhaps they were waiting for me there – we had previously discussed a meeting place.

No sign. It was now nearing 6pm and getting dark quickly. I decided I would try the flat one more time and if there was no answer I would go to the nearest youth hostel. That was that.

As I neared the flat – my phone rang….it was Jerome.

‘Mate, it’s Jerome. Where are you?’

‘I’m just outside the flat!’

Perfect. That was good timing.

Locked up the bike in the hallway – got my panniers upstairs and settled in.

The evening was very nice – Jerome’s friends, Dominique and Vincent, are great. Super fun, lively, and great to talk to.

Jerome’s knee however is not in good shape. This evening he went out to see a doctor and a physiotherapist. Both gave him a resounding ‘do not continue. rest.’

It is terribly disappointing, but that is what the body is saying, so that is what needs to be respected.

You do have to give Jerome tremendous credit though. From never really riding a bike – to meeting some crazy American who was passing through, to buying a bike, and giving it a go, takes a lot of courage and determination. I’m sorry his trip has to end like this.

Tomorrow I will spend one day in Marseilles – I’d like to be a tourist tomorrow!

And then East – go East….

108km Bicycled Today

2150km to Date