The Wandering Idiot

The days are flying by quickly now. It’s hard for me to believe that it’s been 41 days since I left Brighton – watching the shores disappear in the distance. When I take the time to go back through all of the photos I’ve taken, all the places, people, and kilometers I’ve been through I’m astonished by how much has happened in such a short space of time. Travelling by bicycle really does bring you closer to the place you are visiting.

I didn’t leave Erik’s house until about 9.45am. It was a good time, I knew I had 100km ahead of me.

Not long into the day, the clouds built up and I felt the first drops of rain since my horrible ride between Agen and Toulouse…the rain came in big heavy drops, but didn’t last long….I didn’t even bother to get my waterproofs out. Within 10 or 15 minutes, it was gone.

As I made my way up the coast the scenery changed and the earth went a deep dark red. It was almost like Arizona meets the Med. There was very little development as I believe this was a national park area. The road barely hung onto the rocks and as is wound it’s way over cliffs and ravine’s…it took me a while to get through this area as there were so many photo opportunities.

I passed through Cannes…had lunch near the beach, and left. Nothing really to report there.

I then cycled to Antibes and made my way around the Cap d’Antibes – I went to oggle at the homes and the toys of the ultra-rich…but there was little to see…the mansions hidden away behind 12 foot walls topped with barbed wire, turning the Cap d’Antibes – possibly once a pristine peninsula – into a modern day fortress.

The yachts however were impressive. Massive cruisers brandishing helicopters, detachable sailboats, and names like Don’t Touch, and Look at Me. Clearly the home of the playboy.

The most impressive was the yacht, Tatoosh – owned by Microsoft’s, Paul Allen

For me, the highlight of Antibes was the Picasso Museum. On the recommendation of reader, Cycle Jerk, I took the time to park my bike and have a wander. It is very unusual for me to break mid-ride and go to a museum. I prefer to just get to my destination, lock my bike and things with my hosts, before exploring a town. But in this case I was just passing through so had little choice.

Overall, the ride to Nice was very pleasant. The sun returned to finish the day, I had a tail wind for most of the day and the scenery was breathtaking.

On arrival to Nice, the city was buzzing with people. I liked this place immediately. There is a great energy, fantastic beach front, and cafes everywhere…I love it. I will be spending four nights in Nice…I have two hosts here – so two nights at each. I probably won’t be writing again until I leave and to a brief update on my time here.

I will also be using my time to plan the Italy leg of the trip…find hosts there, and decide on the best route.

I would like to visit the Cingue Terra region, but I’m not sure if the paths between the towns are cyclable. …My tentative plan is to cycle down to Pisa, cross to Ancona, and then take a ferry to Croatia before continuing to Zagreb. This route allows me to skip the flatter north (which other touring cyclists have told me is dead boring and enjoy parts of Tuscany. If you are a touring cyclist, reading this, and know about this area I would really like to hear from you with any advice in regards to crossing Italy and cycling in Cinque Terra.

Have a great weekend everyone and I’ll be back on Tuesday.

Nice early start today. I was up at 6:45am – needed the time to update the blog…I am finding that I enjoy writing the most in the mornings…my head is clear and I usually have free time away from other people to do the things I need to do.

Jerome and I parted ways today. He’s off back to Paris I think and has other adventures ahead…at least he has a bike and a taste for touring so hopefully he’ll be back at is soon.

My ride out of Marseille began with an immediate climb…right off the bat. 10km of uphill. It was the first of two climbs…however the second climb was the killer. I went out of my way to conquer the Route des Cretes – it climbs up into the mountains just to the east of Marseille.

I had no idea what I was getting my self into or how steep the road actually was.

But I pushed into the hair pin turns and steep incline, my legs burned, sometimes I had to get off and push the bike, but at the end of it all it delivered me to the clouds and some fantastic views…

Once I descended back down to sea level, the remainder of the ride followed the coast, cruised through forest, and went through the small towns along the coast. Not much to report there.

I had lunch on a bench by the sea…eggs, saucisson, baguette, tomato, apple, and clementine…

This evening I am being hosted by Adrian, a student from the Pyrenees. A great conversationalist and a passion for home cooking…I think I will fit in here just fine…

85km Bicycled Today

2235km to Date

One thing that I have learned on this trip is to always accept any food offered to you. As such, when I left the lovely company of Nicole, Jean and their son, Matthew – I left with three boiled eggs, a whole pack of figs, butter biscuits, and oranges!

I really enjoyed my time spent with them – not only do they live in a beautiful home in a very special and beautiful part of the world – but they really looked after me and only because a they received a phone call from a friend. The level of hospitality the people are willing to extend to me (and anyone else cycling through, I presume) continues to astonish me.

Second to riding my bike – it is the best part of this trip

I left Jean and Nicole early…I was really concerned this morning about riding into Marseilles at night and I had heard plenty of dodgy stories about the city.

I was on my bike at 7:15am. It was brilliant. The air was still, not a cloud in the sky, and I pedalled into the sunrise.

Immediately after I left the Camargue, crossed a river, the scenery completely changed…from beautiful salt marshes – to an industrial wasteland. I was surround by trucks, oil refineries, and other unknown industry…pumping fumes into the sky and raping the land. It was so bizarre – from herons, reed beds, and bulls – to this industrial world…well we know it exists, but we would rather not see it – and I certainly don’t like riding my bike through it – dodging 26 ton tanker trucks!

The good thing though was this area was, flat, and I had a tail wind (first one of the trip!) and was able to push through the wasteland at an average speed of about 31kph…thank god for that!

I finally arrived to Martigues – quick break, ate and egg…and then set off for the hills ahead. I knew that behind that climb was the sea and I couldn’t wait to get back on the Med!

The climb went on and on, but not too exhausting. I haven’t had a real climbs for days now so I was grateful for the change in scenery…but at the top of the climb I was rewarded with this view (not a great picture, but just imagine you were there:)!)

Followed by a few miles of fantastic rolling downhill to the sea.

Now I really felt like I was in the Mediterranean. Rather than miles of sandy beaches I had now come to a rocky coast that fell straight into the sea. That strong smell of pine, that I am so familiar with in the Adriatic, permeated my head and immediately brought back memories of holidays spent on Croatias fantastic coast. The water was blue. Really blue. This is the Mediterranean sea that I know.

I love the rocky, craggy, coasts.

The following miles followed a road that snaked along the villages, in and out of the coves, following the sea. It was great riding. I could see Marseilles in the distance.

Lunch – the snacks said above…the last two eggs, butter biscuits, two oranges, a fig – oh yes…and a croissant I had bought earlier – all enjoyed on the Med.

I reached Marseilles in very, very good time. I covered the 100+km in exactly five hours, so by 1.30pm I was sitting in a bar on the old harbour relaxing with an espresso first – and then a glass of wine later. I had a few hours to kill as I was meeting Jerome at about 4pm.

I sat. I read Al Humphrey’s book. It inspired me to want more! France…I’m only in France! Where is the real adventure! hehe…kidding…I’m having a great time, and probably not as masochistic as Al.

Jerome is in Marseilles – he’s staying with some of his friends here. I am meant stay two nights there as well. We’ll see how Jerome’s knee is today and tomorrow.

4pm…I was expecting a phone call from Jerome or his friends. I’m still sitting at the cafe. But it’s started to get dark…and the last thing I want to do is bumble around an unfamiliar city with all my gear after dark…I mean – the whole point of leaving so early this morning was so that I would reach the city with plenty of light.

5pm…still no word. I make an executive decision to try and find the flat. I have the address, but did not prepare this eventuality so no map. I asked, and asked, and eventually I found the street. Wasn’t hard and I was chuffed with myself for sorting it out. I found the flat, rang the bell…no answer. So I walked back down to the port. Perhaps they were waiting for me there – we had previously discussed a meeting place.

No sign. It was now nearing 6pm and getting dark quickly. I decided I would try the flat one more time and if there was no answer I would go to the nearest youth hostel. That was that.

As I neared the flat – my phone rang….it was Jerome.

‘Mate, it’s Jerome. Where are you?’

‘I’m just outside the flat!’

Perfect. That was good timing.

Locked up the bike in the hallway – got my panniers upstairs and settled in.

The evening was very nice – Jerome’s friends, Dominique and Vincent, are great. Super fun, lively, and great to talk to.

Jerome’s knee however is not in good shape. This evening he went out to see a doctor and a physiotherapist. Both gave him a resounding ‘do not continue. rest.’

It is terribly disappointing, but that is what the body is saying, so that is what needs to be respected.

You do have to give Jerome tremendous credit though. From never really riding a bike – to meeting some crazy American who was passing through, to buying a bike, and giving it a go, takes a lot of courage and determination. I’m sorry his trip has to end like this.

Tomorrow I will spend one day in Marseilles – I’d like to be a tourist tomorrow!

And then East – go East….

108km Bicycled Today

2150km to Date

The ride today was, easy, short, and flat…but none the less…we were back on the bikes and for me – that was awesome. The days spent in Montpellier were very nice…relaxing, partying, and what not…but I realised, especially this morning, that I am happiest when on the bike…happiest when there is nothing to think about but pushing my bike to the next destination. Feeling miles and miles of tarmac moving underneath my bike.

I love riding my bike.

I love getting up early – having a good size breakfast and pushing into my day now. Things are clear when I’m riding. There is no bullshit to deal with, no over complicated thoughts…and if things do come up, I can always burn it through my body…push into the pedals.

Mentally – the ride is much easier now. I feel well into my trip and homesickness is moving away. Gone are the days of teary eyes on the bike and my longing for home – I feel less and less like an idiot for choosing to do this trip. I focus now on reaching Zagreb for Christmas. That’s my main goal. From there I will regroup and look at how to achieve Istanbul. (will the weather be ok? do I have enough money? which roads? Etc.)

Although the ride today was flat, pleasant, and on the sea front, Jerome’s knee is not up to task it seems. He struggled today – it is clear his knee is hurting him. We took three days off – but I have a feeling that his knee really needs to do nothing for two or three weeks. This could be a show stopper for Jerome…at least for now.

From my point of view, I have been happy to wait a bit so he can have some recovery time, but I can’t say that I am open to pausing for a couple of weeks…call it selfish, but my adventure must continue…I finally feel like I understand how to do this trip, and I don’t want to park myself in the south of France for too long.

We have agreed that we will continue to Marseilles together. It’s about 100km from here and we will break the ride up into two days. From there we can see how his knee is and make a decision.

This evening we are being hosted by Fabrice – a local estate agent – in the resort town of Le Grau-du-Roi.

It’s dead here.

You can tell that this place is absolutely pumping in the summer months and would be a great place to be, but now – very, very quiet. Fabrice tells me that in the winter there are about 7k residents here…but in the summer there are 100k+! Quite a difference.

We went to a house party with Fabrice and some of his colleagues – the flat we went to was very cool, top floor, first line on the seafront, nice terrace…everything you could ask for – for a summer home.

It was a very nice evening – meeting people you would never normally meet, trying lots of new foods (duck heart on beetroot for example), and just generally trying to enjoy the moment in the most random of places, with the most random of people. Couchsurfing really exposes you to knew things you never would have dreamed of…it’s a very cool way to travel.

Tomorrow we make our way towards Marseilles with a stop at some friends of Jerome’s…it looks to be the first wet day of a little while, but it’s still warm…hopefully the weather will hold and we can enjoy more lazy miles of beachfront riding….

47km Bicycled Today

1968km to Date

We had an early start today…up and at ‘em at 7.30…well probably not early for a lot of people, but for me – these days – it’s an early start.

The ride to Montpellier was anticipated to be a very short day…maybe 40km tops, so we had time to burn, go slow and enjoy the ride.

Jerome has been suffering from knee pain and it has gotten progressively worse…maybe too much too soon, but we were hoping for a short, quick cycle to Montpellier and then a break there to let things recuperate.

The ride was pretty amazing….the entire journey was along the seafront – some bicycle paths, other dirt tracks, and a few roads – but all with the Med just meters away on our right.

For lunch we decided to treat ourselves….after enjoying the cassoulet so much in Carcassonne, we bought some canned cassoulet and busted out the camping stove! That’s right – cassoulet on the beach…oooohhhh yeah!

Fantastic!

We had lots of time to cover the miles today, so we stopped frequently – enjoyed the beaches – and generally took our time.

Towards the end of the day though, Jerome’s knee really started playing up. It looks a bit swollen, and cycling further is simply out of the question until he gets some proper rest and recuperation. Looks like the result of a bit too much too soon.

Tomorrow…rest day in Montpellier…

57km Bicycled Today

1920km to Date